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Tuxedos Thread

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  1. #1

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    Wedding suit – Custom in NYC vs. Alteration

    Hi,

    I’m a style/fashion novice, and getting married soon (in mid-December — so 3 months). I have to buy a suit for the wedding — probably in black or less likely, navy blue (I know the usual advice about black, but this is an eastern wedding, so a bit different).

    – I am unsure whether to go custom or buy one off the rack (e.g. SuitSupply) and get it altered. If I’m not looking for any special/unusual details, is there a significant benefit in getting custom?

    – Fiance wants me to get a 3-piece suit. Is that too old-fashioned? I’m 32. Want something that would look good in pictures

    – In terms of proportion, I have narrower frame. Otherwise height, etc are not too far from average

    – For custom suits, what would you recommend in NYC? Also going to Chicago soon, if that makes a difference

    Thanks in advance!! 

    Last edited by san1234; September 16th, 2017 at 02:43 PM.

  2. #2

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    How soon is “soon?” Altering an off the rack suit is going to be dramatically quicker than getting something MTM.

    If you’re just looking for a suit, and can find something off the rack that gets you about 90% of the way where you want to be, I’d go with having it tailored.

    I’d say that a three piece suit isn’t necessarily old fashioned, but with black, may be a bit much. That’s going to be quite a bit of black with little in the way of shirt and tie to offset it.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by san1234 View Post
    – I am unsure whether to go custom or buy one off the rack (e.g. SuitSupply) and get it altered. If I’m not looking for any special/unusual details, is there a significant benefit in getting custom?

    Get off the rack and have it tailored. Go custom if you want certain fabric or style not available off the rack. Or if your body profile is not common most suits just won’t fit.

    Quote Originally Posted by san1234 View Post
    – Fiance wants me to get a 3-piece suit. Is that too old-fashioned? I’m 32

    You don’t see it often–that’s true–but it’s not old-fashioned

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Domino View Post

    How soon is “soon?” Altering an off the rack suit is going to be dramatically quicker than getting something MTM.

    If you’re just looking for a suit, and can find something off the rack that gets you about 90% of the way where you want to be, I’d go with having it tailored.

    I’d say that a three piece suit isn’t necessarily old fashioned, but with black, may be a bit much. That’s going to be quite a bit of black with little in the way of shirt and tie to offset it.

    Thanks! Wedding’s in mid-December. So that gives me ~3 months.

    What OTR would you recommend? Seems like SuitSupply is the consensus on this site?

    Also, when I bought my previous work suit and blazer at Brooks Brothers, they did alter it for me. But the alterations seemed to be an after-thought for them. They weren’t really interested in making sure it fit, looked good, etc. At two different BBs, seems like their first tack is to try to reduce the number of alterations you initially request. This is understandable, but I’m wondering whether I should buy it one place, and then take it to another?

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    I have had good luck with Suit Supply (Napoli fit for me, only needed the pants hemmed, which they did with a quick turnaround).

    As for 3 piece, I say go for it:

    https://www.articlesofstyle.com/7554…ys-go-3-piece/

    Although I guess my main exposure to 3 piece is when watching basketball games, Jay Wright doesn’t always where them, but when he does, it seems a step above (then again they are $4k custom suits)
    https://www.vuhoops.com/jay-wright-suit-watch
    http://www.philly.com/philly/living/…ght_right.html

  6. #6

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    FWIW, I just purchased a suit from Suitsupply and I’m on my 3rd attempt to get the pants right from their in-house tailor.

    I needed the seat and waist taken and the pants hemmed.

    1st attempt yielded no break on the hem instead of the half break that had been measured and requested along with unsightly wrinkling in the seat.

    2nd attempt came back as full break, and the seat was totally off, with the center seam pulled in so much that each “cheek” was clearly defined.

    There were also some short, weird horizontal creases running perpendicular to the leg seams that I am afraid are a result of poor tailoring technique.

    Hopefully, they will be able to fix issues, but I’m really not optimistic at this point.

  7. #7

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    I had an Indian coworker who needed a three-piece black suit for his brother’s wedding. They are extremely difficult to find off the rack, even in New York.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by theplayerking View Post

    I had an Indian coworker who needed a three-piece black suit for his brother’s wedding. They are extremely difficult to find off the rack, even in New York.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks! I’m finding this out right now…SuitSupply has exactly one black suit (other than the tux), and it’s their Sienna fit. I have narrow shoulders, so I’m thinking it’s not a good option for me?

  9. #9

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    I have had a good experience with Black Lapel. From placing the order to receiving it, it was 2 weeks.

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    If you want something more customized, I can recommend Kent Wang, which is what I decided on for my own 3 piece fully canvassed wedding suit. They have an office in NYC. Aaron at Kent Wang is really nice and will fit/guide you through the process. I believe they start at 800 for a 3 piece, so depends on your budget. Kentwang.com and you can also find their affiliate page on styleforum.net for pics from other people that have been fitted.

  1. #11

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    I just placed an order with Black Lapel last week. Got measured in person in NYC a few weeks back, and sprang for a full 3-piece. Was more than suitsupply, but all the glowing praise, coupled with the in-person measurement experience (i was already in town, so hopping over to the shop wasn’t a massive deal, and I trust them to do it themselves way more than I trust myself to get it right) made me realize it was worth it. I’ve had great experiences with Suitsupply as well, don’t get me wrong. But if you have the time available, I can’t recommend strongly enough hitting both and getting a feel for what they offer. Black Lapel isn’t true custom; it’s MTM, but it also can be had for well under $1k which isn’t even toes in the water for a true bespoke suit.

    I’d say hit Suitsupply (I’ve been to the Madison Ave location and they were GREAT) first and if you can’t find what you’re looking for there, head to Black Lapel (10 E. 38th, 3rd floor) and they’ll take care of you.

    For what it’s worth, Suitsupply *DOES* tend to lean on the more “current/trendy” side when it comes to pants, so they *ARE* a slim fit. No getting around it, but they can let them out some. I haven’t had issues yet, but as my weight increases at the squat rack, I can only imagine I’ll be putting some things up on ebay at some point. Hopefully I can keep things for another year just to keep the wife a little more sane 

  2. #12

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    Black Lapel does require appointments, so you cannot just pop in as an fyi.

    Last edited by paintflinger; September 18th, 2017 at 05:43 PM.

  3. #13

    Varsity Memberarmedferret's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by paintflinger View Post
    Black Lapel does require appoints, so you cannot just pop in as an fyi.

    True but one can often schedule same or next day so it’s not a huge inconvenience to someone already in the city.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by armedferret View Post
    For what it’s worth, Suitsupply *DOES* tend to lean on the more “current/trendy” side when it comes to pants, so they *ARE* a slim fit. No getting around it, but they can let them out some. I haven’t had issues yet, but as my weight increases at the squat rack, I can only imagine I’ll be putting some things up on ebay at some point. Hopefully I can keep things for another year just to keep the wife a little more sane 

    I don’t skip leg day, but I’m genetically smaller and have basically no arse. Off the rack, the Lazio trousers fit great in the thighs, but were extra roomy in the seat. I’ve now been to pick up my Suitsupply suit three times in an attempt to get the pants right, and they’re still off.

    Today they were actually pinned up by the tailor, not the sales people, and I would STRONGLY encourage you to go that route if you’re using their in house tailoring. My fingers are crossed that this fourth attempt will result in properly fitted trousers. To their credit, they did refund the cost of the tailoring today, but man, am I tired of driving to that store at this point.

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