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Thread Find Custom Suit Tailor

Old 5 November 2014, 10:11 AM   #1
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Bespoke suits NYC/NJ

Gents – looking for a taylor who can build me a nice suit. Cant be an old guy since i have never had luck with an older guy since my style is modern. Wear my suits very slim and almost painted on. I have literslly ripped two suit oants in the ass in the last month since i have been hitting the weights hard. Any reccomendations in NYC or North NJ?
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Old 5 November 2014, 11:48 AM   #2
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According ** new GQ magazine on style: skinny suits are OUT of style unless the wearer is skinny, in which case they are great.

Most American men are **o thick and look like stuffed sausages in skin tight suits. Like New Jersey mafia. IMO and in the opinion of many fashion gurus, this trend is over. But if it works for ***, then go for it.

I would go ** Barneys of Bergdorfs or Ralph Lauren, who all do cus**m versions of their suits. I just bought I skinny Black Label from Ralph Lauren that fits like a charm.

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Gents – looking for a taylor who can build me a nice suit. Cant be an old guy since i have never had luck with an older guy since my style is modern. Wear my suits very slim and almost painted on. I have literslly ripped two suit oants in the ass in the last month since i have been hitting the weights hard. Any reccomendations in NYC or North NJ?
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Old 5 November 2014, 11:54 AM   #3
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According ** new GQ magazine on style: skinny suits are OUT of style unless the wearer is skinny, in which case they are great.

Most American men are **o thick and look like stuffed sausages in skin tight suits. Like New Jersey mafia. IMO and in the opinion of many fashion gurus, this trend is over. But if it works for ***, then go for it.

I would go ** Barneys of Bergdorfs or Ralph Lauren, who all do cus**m versions of their suits. I just bought I skinny Black Label from Ralph Lauren that fits like a charm.

I can promise *** i am not one of those guys. Theres a difference betweem muscular and thick. Thanks for the reccomendation

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Old 5 November 2014, 01:35 PM   #4
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Bespoke suits NYC/NJ

*** are very fortunate that *** have access ** NYC. Most of the tailoring houses from Savile Row in London make multiple trips ** the US each year. New York City is always on the list of cities that they visit. Each house has their own personality, so maybe check out their websites and visit the Style Forum site ** find out which place is best for ***. Since *** tend ** like the slimmer style suits *** probably are going ** like somebody like Richard Anderson. Some of the tailoring houses might have made ** measure (MTM) suits that work great with ***r body. If not, each house has a fully bespoke option where *** can get exactly the suit *** want. Look at the following:

http://www.richardandersonltd.com/
http://www.h-huntsman.com/
http://dege-skinner.co.uk/
http://www.nor**nandsons.co.uk/

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Old 5 November 2014, 02:10 PM   #5
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Is this a Star City post ?

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Old 5 November 2014, 02:27 PM   #6
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If your pants are ripping, it isn’t well tailored to your body. There is an acceptable form of fitting and then there isn’t Your suits sound to be the latter.

I wear made to measure, all very slim and fitted. I can sit, stand, kneel and bend without coming close to pulling the seams.

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Old 5 November 2014, 02:31 PM   #7
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I go to Michael Andrews Bespoke in SoHo. Great service and tons of customization choices.
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Old 5 November 2014, 11:32 PM   #8
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Wear my suits very slim and almost painted on. I have literslly ripped two suit oants in the ass in the last month since i have been hitting the weights hard.

are people really serious or make this stuff up 

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Old 6 November 2014, 12:09 AM   #9
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*** are very fortunate that *** have access ** NYC. Most of the tailoring houses from Savile Row in London make multiple trips ** the US each year. New York City is always on the list of cities that they visit. Each house has their own personality, so maybe check out their websites and visit the Style Forum site ** find out which place is best for ***. Since *** tend ** like the slimmer style suits *** probably are going ** like somebody like Richard Anderson. Some of the tailoring houses might have made ** measure (MTM) suits that work great with ***r body. If not, each house has a fully bespoke option where *** can get exactly the suit *** want. Look at the following:

http://www.richardandersonltd.com/
http://www.h-huntsman.com/
http://dege-skinner.co.uk/
http://www.nor**nandsons.co.uk/

thank you sir. Ever hear of Saint Laurie?

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Old 6 November 2014, 12:41 AM   #10
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Old 6 November 2014, 12:44 AM   #11
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Old 6 November 2014, 01:50 AM   #12
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Old 6 November 2014, 03:43 AM   #13
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It seems to me that Tom Ford would have something like what you are looking for. I was displeased with the tailoring that was featured on Daniel Craig, which is a very slim cut and fitted suit for his body.

But if that’s what you like, then go ahead and find that. Tom Ford is my suggestion. I don’t know about the availability of his clothes in NYC, NJ but that’s my two cents.

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Old 6 November 2014, 04:32 AM   #14
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I have never heard of Saint Laurie, however I checked out their website. There are some good things they mention. First, they perform all of their tailoring on the premises, which is a good thing. Most custom tailoring is now done in Hong Kong or a variety of other places. A tailor might measure you at their shop and then send your measurements to Hong Kong. Usually, you get your finished suit completed and sent back to you without a second fitting. This is not a good idea. On the Saint Laurie site, they mentioned that you get a second fitting with a semi completed suit. This is your opportunity to tell the tailor if you want something tighter, looser, shorter, longer, etc. It’s the best part of the custom tailoring experience, and it means that you get exactly the suit you want. They never mention the word bespoke, so I’m assuming you are getting a made to measure suit. However, for most people this will still be the best suit they own. It will fit better than any ready to wear suit by the name brand designers. Here are some things to look for in your suit:
1) High armholes
2) Fully handsewn and not machine sewn
3) Full floating canvas (never purchase fused canvas)
4) Functional jacket sleeve buttons (not merely decorative)
5) Horn buttons (not synthetic)
6) Functional lapel hole
7) I personal like pick stitching, but not everyone does
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Old 6 November 2014, 10:42 AM   #15
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I have never heard of Saint Laurie, however I checked out their website. There are some good things they mention. First, they perform all of their tailoring on the premises, which is a good thing. Most custom tailoring is now done in Hong Kong or a variety of other places. A tailor might measure you at their shop and then send your measurements to Hong Kong. Usually, you get your finished suit completed and sent back to you without a second fitting. This is not a good idea. On the Saint Laurie site, they mentioned that you get a second fitting with a semi completed suit. This is your opportunity to tell the tailor if you want something tighter, looser, shorter, longer, etc. It’s the best part of the custom tailoring experience, and it means that you get exactly the suit you want. They never mention the word bespoke, so I’m assuming you are getting a made to measure suit. However, for most people this will still be the best suit they own. It will fit better than any ready to wear suit by the name brand designers. Here are some things to look for in your suit:
1) High armholes
2) Fully handsewn and not machine sewn
3) Full floating canvas (never purchase fused canvas)
4) Functional jacket sleeve buttons (not merely decorative)
5) Horn buttons (not synthetic)
6) Functional lapel hole
7) I personal like pick stitching, but not everyone does

So i went to Saint Laurie today and the owner fits you. It is fully custom and i start eith the fabric then he gets very in depth with ever aspect ofmyour suit. Imopted for the fully functional button holes on the sleeve as he told me this is one of the easiest ways for you for the traind eye to know your suit is custom. I went with the itslian fabric and learned a lot about custom suits and suits overall. Cant wait to see how the suit turns out. Only downfall is the 6 week wait and thats only to go for your second fitting

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Old 6 November 2014, 10:51 AM   #16
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Congratulations! I’m sure you’re going to love your new suit. What kind of cloth did you end up choosing?
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Old 6 November 2014, 01:17 PM   #17
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I’ve never seen a suit from Hong Kong to outdo an Italian.

This is a Zegna

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Old 6 November 2014, 02:01 PM   #18
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I’ve never seen a suit from Hong Kong to outdo an Italian.

This is a Zegna

When people refer to suits from Hong Kong, they are referring to the British cut suits, not Chinese, due to the UK’s 99 year lease. There are still multi-generation master suit makers in Hong Kong.

Modern Italian cut suits are more similar to British than Italian.

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Old 6 November 2014, 02:20 PM   #19
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What’s a ‘suit’?
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Old 6 November 2014, 06:36 PM   #20
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Bespoke suits NYC/NJ

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When people refer to suits from Hong Kong, they are referring to the British cut suits, not Chinese, due to the UK’s 99 year lease. There are still multi-generation master suit makers in Hong Kong.

Modern Italian cut suits are more similar to British than Italian.

It’s not the master suit makers in Hong Kong that’s the issue. It is impossible to get a good fit the 1st time, so those guys do the rough sketch, then the companies here use their tailors to finish it off.

All these ‘bespoke’ clothiers try to imitate a high-end suit for less $ than a good suit off the rack. Many don’t even know how to measure. That is where the problem starts.

The ones that I’ve seen, so I’ll qualify it that way, all try to look ‘bespoke’ but starting from the fabric, to the buttons, to the pockets, lapels, even the stitching of the owner’s name on the inside looks cheap.

I’ve heard of St Laurie and the good part about them is that all is done in house – but they also charge more than a company like mysuit.com or Tom James. Mohan’s in NYC as an example, makes absolute crap. I went there on a recommendation from a coworker and the quality of everything was subpar (spent around $10k for 4 suits). They threw in 4 shirts, which I donated.

Look also at Stephen Kempson – high end true custom suit. Once one tries Stephen’s work, they wouldn’t contact the others I mentioned.

When you see these ads for custom suits for $500-700/suit, honestly, you get what you pay for.

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Old 7 November 2014, 02:10 AM   #21
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You’re describing made to measure suits which is not the same as bespoke.

I agree with you that 99% of the population can buy a great off the rack suit and be satisfied with the fit but those aren’t the custom suit customers.

Unless your body matches a mannequins, the fit is almost never perfect. Department store and even boutique tailors won’t go beyond the free hemming.

Made to measure provides a much better fit out the the box, since it’s made to your measurements and then fine tuned from there.

Bespoke in the other hand, creates the perfect fit through multiple baste fittings.

There is no comparison between the look of bespoke and off the rack. Made to measure is somewhere in the middle.

I personally haven’t committed to a bespoke suit but have several off the rack and made to measure suits from Angelo Galasso, Louis Purple and Mysuit. The fit and finish is far better than off the rack but the fabrics of Mysuit are garbage

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Old 7 November 2014, 02:21 AM   #22
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There are gradations and most people don’t understand the difference between custom and made-to-measure.

I got hooked on custom suits in Japan, with a tailor who made suits for many of the Embassy community.

In the US, in D.C., I used a former Saville Row tailor who made suits precisely to my specs. This was 15 years ago, before the average person was aware of pick stitching and working cuff buttons. I brought in a Dunhill blazer and asked him to use it as a model.

Now I am retired and gave away all my suits, as they are out of style. But just last month bought a Ralph Lauren black suit and had it customized and they were happy to do so (the first button hole on my cuffs I had stitched in red, that sort of thing). Ralph’s higher end suits are made in Italy but with a British cut.

Most people could care less and are fine buying off the rack. But for those who care, there are many options.

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You’re describing made to measure suits which is not the same as bespoke.

I agree with you that 99% of the population can buy a great off the rack suit and be satisfied with the fit but those aren’t the custom suit customers.

Unless your body matches a mannequins, the fit is almost never perfect. Department store and even boutique tailors won’t go beyond the free hemming.

Made to measure provides a much better fit out the the box, since it’s made to your measurements and then fine tuned from there.

Bespoke in the other hand, creates the perfect fit through multiple baste fittings.

There is no comparison between the look of bespoke and off the rack. Made to measure is somewhere in the middle.

I personally haven’t committed to a bespoke suit but have several off the rack and made to measure suits from Angelo Galasso, Louis Purple and Mysuit. The fit and finish is far better than off the rack but the fabrics of Mysuit are garbage

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Old 7 November 2014, 02:38 AM   #23
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It’s not the master suit makers in Hong Kong that’s the issue. It is impossible to get a good fit the 1st time, so those guys do the rough sketch, then the companies here use their tailors to finish it off.

Vici is completely correct with this statement. The fit and construction is everything when it comes to a suit. Even the best tailors in the world rarely get everything perfect on the first try. That is why a second or third fitting is so crucial to make sure you are happy. There are a lot of companies popping up now trying to cash in on the “Bespoke” name. Almost all of them are offering custom, or made to measure suits. They are NOT offering a true bespoke suit, such as you would find on Savile Row or numerous other notable places. Made to measure suits are all based off a standard pattern that each tailoring house creates. They alter this standard pattern based off your measurements and they hope that it creates a good fit. Sometimes this is going to be impossible if you have proportions that don’t match up well with their pattern. A true bespoke tailoring house will create your own unique pattern. Individuals spend years training to perform just one step in the entire process. One person only creates patterns, another cuts your cloth, another creates the jacket, and another creates the trousers. In the end, it can take 50-80 hours to create your true bespoke suit. A bespoke suit can start between $4,000-$5,000, which is truly a bargain when you consider it was handmade by artisans and it took 80 hours to create. Just like a Rolex, this garment will last you a lifetime! Most tailoring houses will include free alterations for life. They will construct the garment in such a way that there is a little room for adjustments. As you gain or lost weight over the years, they can make sure your suit still fits great.

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Old 7 November 2014, 06:14 AM   #24
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I guess like anything else, depends on what you want to spend. A friend had used “Beau by Aksel Paris” in NYC and was pleased with what he got. I have zero experience with them though. To VICI’s point, the issue is probably for truly bespoke, you will need a few fittings to get it perfect…

Personally, I do think these are a better starting point than buying OTR. Also depends on your frame…I have a pretty small stomach/waist but lift quite a bit, so OTR never fits perfect. If you have a more normal frame, maybe a properly constructed OTR suit does the trick.

In NJ, I have heard Carlos from Summit Tailors does good work, and believe he does it all in-house. Last I heard suits were starting in the $1500 range.

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Old 7 November 2014, 06:19 AM   #25
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Congratulations! I’m sure you’re going to love your new suit. What kind of cloth did you end up choosing?

I went italian stripped 

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Old 7 November 2014, 06:21 AM   #26
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You’re describing made to measure suits which is not the same as bespoke.

I agree with you that 99% of the population can buy a great off the rack suit and be satisfied with the fit but those aren’t the custom suit customers.

Unless your body matches a mannequins, the fit is almost never perfect. Department store and even boutique tailors won’t go beyond the free hemming.

Made to measure provides a much better fit out the the box, since it’s made to your measurements and then fine tuned from there.

Bespoke in the other hand, creates the perfect fit through multiple baste fittings.

There is no comparison between the look of bespoke and off the rack. Made to measure is somewhere in the middle.

I personally haven’t committed to a bespoke suit but have several off the rack and made to measure suits from Angelo Galasso, Louis Purple and Mysuit. The fit and finish is far better than off the rack but the fabrics of Mysuit are garbage

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So technically i am in the early stages of the bespoke process

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Old 7 November 2014, 06:31 AM   #27
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I went italian stripped 

No, he means what fabric….

VBC, Zegna, Loro Piana, Holland and Sherry, etc

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Old 7 November 2014, 09:34 AM   #28
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So technically i am in the early stages of the bespoke process

It’s quite possible.

If your next fitting is an assembled suit, that process is closer to made to measure than bespoke.

I know there are some members here that are far more knowledgeable than I about this process but my understanding is that a baste fitting is critical for your first suit with any bespoke suitmaker because that is the template used to cut the fabric to your exact measurements.

So if you end up trying something like the picture below, you’re definitely getting bespoke

Attached Images
File Type: jpg baste.jpg (37.8 KB, 114 views)
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Old 7 November 2014, 09:53 AM   #29
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Find out where The Situation and other stars of Jersey Shore get their suits made. They probably have a tailor who specializes in beefy, muscular guys.

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I went italian stripped 
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Old 7 November 2014, 10:07 AM   #30
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a bit off topic,
but i have been on the hunt for suits as i have started a new job…the biggest issue i am having is finding a tailor that cares and has some talent.
 7 November 2014, 10:23 AM   #31
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I have always liked Ralph Lauren. Not Polo, but rather Black and Purple label. Black is made for slender guys like me; purple is a bit more generous in cut.

Both are made in Italy in British style. And in D.C. they will highly customize the suits. I pick up mine tomorrow and will post picks. Black label much cheaper than purple, which equates to Kiton and Isaia in quality.

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a bit off topic,
but i have been on the hunt for suits as i have started a new job…the biggest issue i am having is finding a tailor that cares and has some talent.
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Old 7 November 2014, 11:36 AM   #32
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a bit off topic,
but i have been on the hunt for suits as i have started a new job…the biggest issue i am having is finding a tailor that cares and has some talent.

You’re in the city, right?

I can connect you with a couple very good tailors that know how a suit should fit based on your style

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Old 7 November 2014, 11:41 AM   #33
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I have always liked Ralph Lauren. Not Polo, but rather Black and Purple label. Black is made for slender guys like me; purple is a bit more generous in cut.

Both are made in Italy in British style. And in D.C. they will highly customize the suits. I pick up mine tomorrow and will post picks. Black label much cheaper than purple, which equates to Kiton and Isaia in quality.

Purple label is world class stuff. My problem is that Ralph Lauren makes very cheap stuff and very expensive stuff so in my head, I can’t make the distinction between the two

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Old 7 November 2014, 11:45 AM   #34
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Find out where The Situation and other stars of Jersey Shore get their suits made. They probably have a tailor who specializes in beefy, muscular guys.

Lol

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Old 7 November 2014, 11:46 AM   #35
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You’re in the city, right?

I can connect you with a couple very good tailors that know how a suit should fit based on your style

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are these tailors good for what i am looking for as well?

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Old 7 November 2014, 11:53 AM   #36
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Are these tailors good for what i am looking for as well?

That probably depends on if you tell them the fabric you want is “striped” or not…

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Old 7 November 2014, 11:54 AM   #37
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That probably depends on if you tell them the fabric you want is “striped” or not…

He pal…my first go round at the bespoke suit scene…take it easy

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Old 7 November 2014, 12:41 PM   #38
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Are these tailors good for what i am looking for as well?

It depends…

Try Kings tailor in the financial district. He’s a 3rd generation suit maker from Hong Kong. He makes custom suits in house (not sending your measurements to Hong Kong shipping it back) and has a great choice of fabrics

He also does incredible work to tailor your existing suits. He practically re-cut my Roberto Cavalli tux into a slim fitting tuxedo and turned my cuff buttons into functioning buttons.

I also use Nick at Eleganza Tailors. He does a lot of the alterations on high end suits coming from the boutiques on 5th or Madison Ave.

Neither are cheap but these are the types of tailors that give your suit a proper fit. Just make sure to tell them what you are looking for and they will tell you whether its possible – they’re tailors, not miracle workers. If your pants are ripping, its probably because they’re too tight

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Old 8 November 2014, 02:14 AM   #39
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I have never heard of Saint Laurie, however I checked out their website. There are some good things they mention. First, they perform all of their tailoring on the premises, which is a good thing. Most custom tailoring is now done in Hong Kong or a variety of other places. A tailor might measure you at their shop and then send your measurements to Hong Kong. Usually, you get your finished suit completed and sent back to you without a second fitting. This is not a good idea. On the Saint Laurie site, they mentioned that you get a second fitting with a semi completed suit. This is your opportunity to tell the tailor if you want something tighter, looser, shorter, longer, etc. It’s the best part of the custom tailoring experience, and it means that you get exactly the suit you want. They never mention the word bespoke, so I’m assuming you are getting a made to measure suit. However, for most people this will still be the best suit they own. It will fit better than any ready to wear suit by the name brand designers. Here are some things to look for in your suit:
1) High armholes
2) Fully handsewn and not machine sewn
3) Full floating canvas (never purchase fused canvas)
4) Functional jacket sleeve buttons (not merely decorative)
5) Horn buttons (not synthetic)
6) Functional lapel hole
7) I personal like pick stitching, but not everyone does

Paul,
Who do you recommend in the Seattle area for custom suits and shirts… doesn’t have to be bespoke, I would be ok with a good MTM. It sounds like the 2nd fitting is important to getting things just right.

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Old 8 November 2014, 07:05 AM   #40
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kbailey,

Seattle isn’t the best city when it comes to tailored clothing. The only two options I have heard of are Gian Decaro and Nordsrom. I don’t have experience with either of them, but I believe they offer made to measure suits.

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Old 8 November 2014, 07:49 AM   #41
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I spoke to an exec. What they are doing is dividing their stores into Polo and Ralph Lauren.

Polo is their entry level clothing, shirts with ponies, etc. Products made in China, but good quality.

Then there is Ralph Lauren, which will ONLY carry Black and Purple Label. Black is very slim fit (I took home a suit today, but I am slender) but very high quality, equal to Zegna. Purple is a bit looser fit but still fitted, but even higher quality, equal to Kiton, Isaia, etc. The Ralph Lauren stores will only carry luxury goods. They are transitioning to this two-tier store model right now.

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Purple label is world class stuff. My problem is that Ralph Lauren makes very cheap stuff and very expensive stuff so in my head, I can’t make the distinction between the two

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Old 8 November 2014, 11:42 AM   #42
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The cloth is went woth is vitale barberis canonico super 110 btw
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Old 8 November 2014, 12:49 PM   #43
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I take all my work clothes to my tailor. I had him fit 5 Saks Black Label suits. He offered to make me a suit for 3,500 as he’s likely tired of fitting all my pants and suits that I purchase that need to be taken in and hemmed. I might take him up on his offer next year and have him make me a black suit.

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Old 8 November 2014, 01:30 PM   #44
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There you go…VBC 110s is a good place to start
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Old 8 November 2014, 01:45 PM   #45
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There you go…VBC 110s is a good place to start

Thanks. What would be the nxt best cloth from here?

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Old 10 November 2014, 01:56 AM   #46
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Anyone have any input on this cloth?
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Old 10 November 2014, 03:32 AM   #47
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Anyone have any input on this cloth?

Personally, I prefer super 130+. The weight drapes better and more resistant to wrinkles which is nice if you spend a lot of time traveling or sitting

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Old 10 November 2014, 05:17 AM   #48
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So i went to Saint Laurie today and the owner fits you. It is fully custom and i start eith the fabric then he gets very in depth with ever aspect ofmyour suit. Imopted for the fully functional button holes on the sleeve as he told me this is one of the easiest ways for you for the traind eye to know your suit is custom. I went with the itslian fabric and learned a lot about custom suits and suits overall. Cant wait to see how the suit turns out. Only downfall is the 6 week wait and thats only to go for your second fitting

Very interested to hear about your experience with Saint Laurie and how the finished product turns out.

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Old 11 November 2014, 04:38 AM   #49
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Very interested to hear about your experience with Saint Laurie and how the finished product turns out.

will definitely keep everyone posted on updates and final product

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Old 12 December 2014, 01:45 PM   #50
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Went for my second fitting today. Tell you what this guy doesnt fuck around. Hes so focued and you can tell passionate about what he does. I have a tough body to fit and i think he liked the challenge. I also got 5 shirts and had a fitting for them. Will post oics of final results

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