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Forum – Ask Andy About Clothes – Looking for a custom suit in NYC

Looking for a custom suit in NYC

Discussion in ‘Andy’s Trad Forum‘ started by Mike224Jan 20, 2017.

  1. Mike224

    Mike224Starting Member

    7
    United States
    New York
    NYC

    I’ve been thinking of getting a custom suit or suit package. Given that I live in NYC, I have a lot of options. But I’ve never bought a custom suit before. Any recommendations ?



    By the way, I’m on a budget. Preferably something that starts at 350-650.

    I came across Enzo Custom and they seem pretty legitimate they’ve got this

    “1 Super 120s Custom Suit,1 Custom Shirt,1 Tie $599″ deal. (anybody know if they offer other deals ?)

  2. sskim3

    sskim3Super Member

    United States
    New York
    New York City

    At that price point, you are better off going to suit supply and then spend another $50-100 on alterations.

    If you are on a budget, j crew still makes nice affordable suits when on sale.

    I would steer clear of those type of deals unless you have gotten real reviews and seen the suits first hand.

    If you are in the city and there is no rush, wait for a sample sale and you may get lucky.

  3. paul winston

    paul winstonSuper Member

    United States
    new york
    new york

    You will not find a “custom” suit in NYC for $350- $600. How custom is defined will vary from maker to maker. Marketing can be very misleading. For example most individuals do not know what the “super” cloth numbers mean. All Super 120’s, super 100’s, etc are not the same. The Super numbers represent the wool that was purchased to make cloth. The wool must then be spun, woven and finished. One can buy Super 120 wool and send it to a cheap spinner, a cheap weaver and a cheap finisher and you will have poor quality cloth that you can say is “Super 120’s. Top quality 120’s cloth will cost $180 to $250 per yard. You need 3 1/2 yards to make most suits. That is not the quality wool that is being used in a $600 suit.
    The suggestion that you buy a good quality off the rack suit on sale and have it altered is a good suggestion.
    Paul Winston
    Winston Tailors/ www.chippneckwear.com
    212 687-0850

  4. Charles Dana

    Charles DanaAdvanced Member

    United States
    California
    San Francisco

    Then you don’t have “a lot of options.” Not really. In fact, if you want a custom suit that looks and feels halfway decent, you have no options on that budget.

    If you will admit this to yourself, then you will save yourself money, time, grief, and money.

    Did I mention that you will also save yourself money?

    Buy ready-made for now, if you absolutely need a suit. Don’t go custom until you have accrued a lot more money, wisdom, and experience wearing suits. (You’ll need the money to purchase quality; you’ll need the wisdom and experience in order to choose stylistic details that will look good for many years instead of looking hopelessly dated after a year or so.)

    So hurry up and wait.

  5. Mike224

    Mike224Starting Member

    7
    United States
    New York
    NYC

    Appreciate the advice guys, what would you deem as the “sweet spot” for OTR suits? Perhaps some recommendations would come in handy too… Thanks

  6. SG_67

    SG_67Connoisseur

    United States
    Illinois
    Chicago

    A custom made suit, be it MTM or bespoke is not something to be done on the cheap. Do that, and I can almost assure you of a disaster of galactic proportions.

    At that price range, consider off the rack with some alterations. It will be infinitely better than what you’re asking for. At your price point you could try Macy’s or wait for a Brooks Brothers sale.

    Someone mentioned J Crew. Not a bad option either. There’s always C21 but you have to wade through a ton of junk to find something to your liking.

    Is Loehman’s still around? If so, try them.

    Last edited: Jan 23, 2017
  7. Charles Dana

    Charles DanaAdvanced Member

    United States
    California
    San Francisco

    About $800 or $900 for a fairly good suit–on sale. Perhaps $600 or $700 if you really shop around.

    It’s not difficult to find suits on sale for $350 to $450, but you should generally avoid them. You know the old sayings:

    Buy cheap, buy twice; and

    Buy quality–you’ll only cry once.

    (I wish I could remember where I first read those aphorisms, as I’d like to give credit where credit is due.)

    Brooks Brothers or J. Press during sale periods.

    BB frequently discounts their suits by 25%, and much more during their winter and summer clearance sales. Now and then they have a “buy two suits for $1500 [or thereabouts]” deal.

    SG 67: Unfortunately, Loehman’s went out of business a couple of years ago. Too bad, as it was often a fine source of heavily discounted, but pretty good, neckties.

    Last edited: Jan 23, 2017
  8. SG_67

    SG_67Connoisseur

    United States
    Illinois
    Chicago

    Thanks. There were a few in the Chicago area a while back but closed. I wasn’t sure if it was just a regional closure or if they whole company went under. Yes…too bad.

    Last edited: Jan 23, 2017
  9. katch

    katchActive Member with Corp. Privileges

    146
    United States
    New York
    New York
  10. Mike224

    Mike224Starting Member

    7
    United States
    New York
    NYC

    Thanks for the replies, although I’m not sure if we’re in synergy. By any chance is made to measure different from custom? Is there like a hierarchical ladder? OTR, MTM, CUSTOM, BESPOKE? Are custom and MTM the same?

    Never mind

    Last edited: Jan 23, 2017
  11. paul winston

    paul winstonSuper Member

    United States
    new york
    new york

    QUOTE=Mike224;1818596]Thanks for the replies, although I’m not sure if we’re in synergy. By any chance is made to measure different from custom? Is there like a hierarchical ladder? OTR, MTM, CUSTOM, BESPOKE? Are custom and MTM the same?
    Custom and MTM are not the same. More over, all MTM is not the same. From the standpoint of the way a garment is made, a MTM garment is no different from the ready-to-wear garments made by the factory that is making it. The difference in MTM and ready-to-wear garments made in a factory are differences made in the cutting of the garment. For example, a 42 regular jacket can be cut with a 1/2″ right low shoulder, a left shoulder that is wider than the right shoulder and the jacket that is 1/2″ shorter. In addition to the size variations, one can select style details- side vents, slant pockets, etc. The “sewing” of the garment will be no different than the “sewing” on the factories ready to wear production. Most MTM -not all- is made by a store/tailor sending cloth and measurements to a producer. The quality of the production can vary widely from one maker to another.
    Custom clothing is made from an individual pattern drafted for an individual The garment is then made by an individual maker or a very small production team, not by a factory production line. At one time custom garments were made by hand. That is vary rarely the case today. There are often additional fittings . Some tailors still make a basted fitting. Due to the advances in the production process, the only individuals who “need’ custom are those who present physical fitting challenges.
    Paul Winston
    Winston Tailors/ www.chippneckwear.com

    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  12. zandor

    zandorNew Member

    49
    United States
    Illinois
    Chicago

    I’ve looked into Enzo a bit but haven’t tried them. I wouldn’t call them custom. They’re more MTM, or maybe “Mr. Potatohead MTM,” meaning MTM with extra options. They just take your measurements and specifications and send them off to some factory. I doubt they’re much different from Suit Supply.

    They have good Yelp reviews so they probably do an ok job for the price, but I think the best use of them is for unusual fabrics you can’t get OTR but don’t want to spend a lot on. They’re also a fabric wholesaler. Maybe hard to fit people too, but for that we have lots of options.

  13. 127.72 MHz

    127.72 MHzAdvanced Member

    United States
    Oregon
    Portland

    Some of the best advice you will ever get is from Mr. Paul Winston. We are very to have him as a member.

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